Cosmetics
Evidence-based profiles of topical skincare actives covering mechanism of action, effective concentration ranges, formulation and pH dependence, gene interactions, irritation and photosensitivity, and graded research references. Informational content only, never medical advice or product promotion.
retinoids
Adapalene
Adapalene is a third-generation synthetic retinoid that binds selectively to two nuclear receptor...
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Azelaic Acid
Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid that treats acne, rosacea, and dark spots...
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Bakuchiol
Bakuchiol is a plant-derived compound, extracted from Psoralea corylifolia seeds, that produces r...
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Benzoyl Peroxide
Benzoyl peroxide is the most reliable over-the-counter weapon against acne, and unlike antibiotic...
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Ceramides
Ceramides are the waxy lipids that cement skin cells together, making up about 50 percent of the...
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Coal Tar
For more than 100 years, coal tar has calmed the itching, scaling skin of psoriasis and seborrhei...
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Cosmetic Peptides
Cosmetic peptides are short synthetic chains of 2 to 20 amino acids designed to mimic endogenous...
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Finasteride (Topical)
Topical finasteride is a synthetic 4-azasteroid compound and competitive inhibitor of type II 5-a...
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Glycolic Acid
Glycolic acid is the smallest of the alpha-hydroxy acids, letting it penetrate skin readily and d...
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Hyaluronic Acid
Hyaluronic acid is a sugar-based molecule naturally found in skin that binds up to 1,000 times it...
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Hydroquinone
Hydroquinone is a phenolic compound that blocks tyrosinase, the enzyme melanocytes use to build m...
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Ketoconazole (Topical)
A single ingredient in medicated shampoos wages a targeted attack on Malassezia, the scalp yeast...
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Kojic Acid
Kojic acid began as a byproduct of the fermentation used to brew sake and soy sauce. In skincare...
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Minoxidil (Topical)
Minoxidil began as a blood pressure drug before doctors noticed an odd side effect, extra hair gr...
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Niacinamide
Niacinamide is the form of vitamin B3 that skin cells convert into NAD+, the fuel molecule that p...
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Retinol
Retinol is an over-the-counter vitamin A derivative that skin cells slowly convert into retinoic...
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Salicylic Acid
Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid that dissolves in oil, letting it penetrate deep into pores...
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Selenium Sulfide
Dandruff shampoos owe much of their power to selenium sulfide, a compound that disrupts the sulfh...
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Sunscreen
Sunscreen protects skin by absorbing or scattering ultraviolet radiation before it reaches living...
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Tranexamic Acid (Topical)
Topical tranexamic acid calms overactive pigment-making cells by cutting off a chemical signal, p...
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Tretinoin
Few skincare ingredients carry as much evidence as tretinoin, a vitamin A derivative that binds r...
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Urea
Skin makes its own urea, about 7 percent of the natural moisturizing factor that keeps the outer...
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Vitamin C (Topical)
Vitamin C serves skin as both a builder and a bodyguard. As L-ascorbic acid, it is a cofactor for...
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Vitamin E (Topical)
Vitamin E defends the fatty membranes of skin cells, trapping the peroxyl radicals that ultraviol...
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Zinc Pyrithione
Zinc pyrithione tackles dandruff at its source, a scalp fungus called Malassezia that thrives on...
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